A Visit to Fourah Bay College

After language class this morning, we made a visit to Fourah Bay College, one of the oldest institutions in West Africa.  Again this eye-opening event was part of our training itinerary and we were excited to go and get a glance of what we might be facing in-country at our own sites.  We pulled into the parking lot and headed into the Education building where we were met with the Assistant Dean and head of the Distance Learning program.   He was terribly apologetic that we couldn’t be welcomed in a manner that had been planned but it turns out their Dean passed away yesterday and, in paying respect to his honor, the college was closed.  Beyond that, the electricity had gone off (which they took in stride) so there were no lights.  The welcoming faculty committee was planning the funeral so we never met them.  We did visit a nearby building to see what the lecture halls looked like and then were left to our own devices. 

Things were rundown as you can see from this photo taken through a broken window out of that building.  It reminded me of some of the Philadelphia schools I’ve visited and taught in.  What was most evident throughout this trip was the lack of materials and difficult conditions these folks deal with day to day.  Most of the lecture halls had chalkboards but the actual surface was not slate but composed of ceiling tiles mounted into place and painted black. 

We went to the library and were greeted by the assistant director there who gave us a short tour.  They are also plagued with little resources.  As you can see here, this is the extent of their entire book collection.  As well, the computer resources they have hardly accommodate the student body most of whom do not have any access to computers.  I counted almost 60 monitors that have to service their almost 5000 students. 

On return to the Education building, we got to sit down with the Assistant Dean and chat.  Still feeling the effects of the war, they are still struggling like all institutions of higher learning in the country.  When I asked him what the most gratifying part of his job was, he answered that serving this enthusiastic and committed student body had kept him there for the past 18 years.  He was also happy that their charge reached into the Sierra Leone countryside with what he estimated to be a 70% student representation, the remaining 30% are from Freetown.  What has been most difficult is that students have a very difficult time paying tuition not to mention the fees (there are no scholarships or loans available to them at this time).  When I asked what that dollar amount came to, he said that tuition ran about $250 a year (American) and the grand total including housing, books, etc. came to about $750 total.  Imagine. 

We had walked by some of the residence halls viewing their poorly condition as you can see below, but when I pressed about how many beds they had with regard to the entire student body, he sighed and said far too few.  There are about 500 beds for the men in their dorms and in the women’s dorms only 200-300.  In fact, last year the students protested this very situation and went on strike over this and a couple of other items.  After the police were called in, a week’s stalemate ended with the government stepping in to help negotiated a bargain.  They promised to renovate older buildings and to begin new construction on new dormitories. 

What brought this to a head, though, was again tied to the overall students’ inability to pay the costs to attend.  It seems that last spring the administration cleared the final exam rooms of non-paying students.  They had been attending class all term and thought it terribly unfair they couldn’t sit for their tests.  It was resolved that they were able to take the exams, while they still had their subjects fresh in mind, then receive credit only after they paid their tuition and fees.  Because of this, the entire school year has been placed on hold and the tentative opening date for the year will be in December whereas we begin in two or three weeks. 

I left with a certain sadness wondering how this could ever happen but also with even more determination to do what I can for the students Sierra Leone at Njala University.  I have no doubt the conditions will be much the same but am committed to doing my best for these folks with such a desire to learn.

Field Trip!

Today we were set loose on east Freetown but for a real purpose.  There is only one main road leading into Freetown, the country’s capital, and all of us will be taking it when we come from our sites back to Peace Corps Headquarters for sickness, a free weekend, or to pick up a guest visitor.  Transport from site to that end of the city is only available to us by bus, university shuttle, or taxi (which is NOTHING like in the United States.  Taxis here are sub-compacts cars with drivers who jam two people (or more) in the front seat and three or four in the back seat and drive at incredible speed over very dangerous roads.  Sound like fun?  Oh, and there are no seat belts!).  Those conveyances then drop their riders at one of a series of stops on the east side of Freetown where we need to take other similar dangerous modes of transportation to the PC HQ.  So, after receiving a briefing last week on the joys of that side of the city we were dropped at one of the typical stops and charged to find our way back.

Keep in mind, we had been warned throughout the trip there to “watch out for that street, you are sure to get pick-pocketed there” and “never take that street, it is too dangerous for you” so by the time we jumped out of the PC van I was just a little bit nervous about our ever returning.  Within only ten minutes, though, we were able to find a poda-poda (small van for hire) and we all squeezed aboard.  These vehicles, the size and shape of a VW mini-bus, have three bench seats not including the driver’s and shotgun seat and since we only pay 1000 Leones (which is about a quarter) it is incumbent on the driver to wedge as many into the back as possible since he lives on the proceeds he pockets.  These aren’t certified, state-inspected vans, for sure.  You can always tell a poda-poda by the fact that it is riding on its axles and it has nifty epigraphs plastered on the front and back; ours had God Saves…I sure hoped!

We four were last to board so we squeezed into the back seat though I had to lean forward since the seat had previously been broken and a 10 penny nail poked through the back and, though it was bent over, was scraping me.  The walls and ceiling of the inside were stripped right to the rusty, reinforcing beams and the side door only stayed shut by virtue of a screen door handle that had been attached by mismatched machine screws.  Fortunately, the windows were open (it gets a bit close with that many people in a small space even on a cool day)and as we progressed west and the passengers dispersed we got a bit of breathing room.  A very nice Salone woman who was sitting in front of us helped make sure we got off at our stop at Congo Cross Junction.  We were almost home.

We did some shopping at a couple of the little markets along the way for supplies.  I bought six bars of laundry soap and a brush to scrub the tough stains, along with a clothes line and pins.  We also bought some food to eat today since we are on our own for all meals.  After bumping into a couple of the two-year Peace Corps Volunteers (PCVs), we made our way up the mile-long, steep hill to the compound via taxi.  I had to take a picture of this market just for the spelling of “Quality”.  In no time we were back and ready for the evening’s activities.

Making it Real

We met with our supervisors today.  Dr. Senesie is a thin, unassuming man of British influence and a great sense of humor. He is currently the Director of the Education unit at Njala University and thrilled to have both Jessica and I coming on board (Jessica at the Bo campus and I at Njala main).  We discussed what we would be doing, where we would be staying, and made clear many of the expectations all parties had.  Our Peace Corps staff, by the way, orchestrated this perfectly so I think the comfort level amongst all was very high.  

I will be teaching only English classes to groups of approximately 150 students in the university’s auditorium…with fixed seating.  So much for collaboration, peer editing and such!  On top of that, it is unlikely that any of the students will be able to afford books (their tuition costs strap them terribly already) so, what has traditionally been done by previous instructors, is that the professor reads the text to the students and then helps them analyze it.  Imagine the benefit of being read Shakespeare like this to learn to read and write better. Hmm.  We’ll see about that.  

As one of the cats who inhabits the Administration building coming in and out as he pleases was taunting a little lizard, we  were told that books literally only cost a couple of American dollars each here so I could pick up an entire set of “Otello” for example for a mere $300.00.  I’ll know more about the reality of this when we get to site and down to business, but if any of you out there would want to donate a little money toward the cause, I can surely send you directions for the medium to get it here (which is NOT by mail).  I’m just not going to let these students go without materials but I also can’t purchase all of their books for them either.  More on that in a later blog…

After our meetings we relaxed out on the Atlantic beach with our Director and CEO.  Here is a shot of us after a supper of sandwiches and a little Star beer.  You might notice I’m wearing my WCU-Kildare’s t-shirt!  Thanks again, George and Bob!  The local brew is a far cry from what we are used to but it wet the whistle well enough!

We took a very short stroll along the water’s edge; it was short partly because the wind was blowing quite hard but moreover because even though we were in a large group there was a good chance we could be attacked by thieves who prey on unassuming folk at this end of the beach.  We headed back to the compound and the driver was pointing out all sorts of night spots along the strip but going out clubbing has never been much of an interest to me so I paid little attention and just enjoyed the ride.  

We have arrived!

Padi monin-o,

We awaken to another beautiful day here in Sierra Leone.  Our trip here was rather uneventful and I managed to stay awake for almost the entire 20 hours of our trip so when we actually set our heads on our pillows last Sunday night, I fell into a deep sleep and got eight solid hours of rest.  That’s not to say I’m not still feeling the time change or the effects of the trip but everything is evening out.

Not unlike this morning, this last Monday found us traipsing into our Program Director’s apartment with tired grins on our faces as we were treated to Danish, homemade muffins, coffee and tea.  The welcome committee from the Senior Staff was so welcoming and this first visit cemented our decision in coming here.  Later, we began our formal orientation with the friendliest people I’ve ever met.  I had heard that Peace Corps hosts would be happy to see us but I was overwhelmed at their kindness and generosity.  As the day progressed, we were constantly regaled from everyone with greetings, “Aw di body?” and “Aw you slip?”  (“How are you feeling?” and “How did you sleep?”)  To which we learned to answer, “A tel go tenki” or “Alhamdulilay”.  (“I tell God thank you” and “Thanks to God”).

There are four other Peace Corps Response Volunteers (PCRP) with me, all from California, and we have become fast friends already.  In fact, we are the very first group of PCRPs to come to Sierra Leone.  Though the 27-month PC volunteers are a long treasured tradition here, we are truly blazing trails in this new program that will hopefully set the standard for many groups to come.  What is most clear is how committed we are about our charge to serve the five universities we’ve been assigned to in bringing English instruction within the reach of the children of this country.

Since, we’ve been in meetings and language instruction, getting informed and updated on policy, and myriad medical procedures.  Today, the doctor pricked my finger demonstrating how we do a Rapid Response test for malaria and our Krio language teacher kindly led us through conversation and instruction that was replete with plenty of laughs and more than a little bit of frustration.  Krio is one of the closest languages to English and yet I still have a hard time hearing it and certainly speaking it.  I have a year to learn…but still.  We’ve had a few “field” trips out into Freetown for groceries and to get our bank accounts in order and the roads and streets are buzzing with brightly dressed women carrying huge packages and filled pots on their heads.  Many have fruit they are carry to their stands while others are toting bundles of sticks.  Buzzing also are the motorcycles as everyone rushes hither and yon.  It’s a cacophony of sights, sounds, and smells that you only see in National Geographic.  I’ll shoot pictures next week if I can in an attempt to replicate what it’s like.

Tomorrow, we meet our campus supervisors for the first time and together we will begin to plan out our schedules and course loads for the year.  I have been assigned, as I think I mentioned, at Njala University and will be living in the small town of the same name.  I’m told it is a lovely, if not small, town with a very large university not too unlike West Chester.  We are situated on a small, potholed dirt road that is about six miles from the main highway but since we are given Trek bikes to use I’ll be able to get out to the highway and onto a bus to go to either neighboring Bo to the east or Freetown to the west.

We were able to see our future houses two days ago when the Police Director flipped out his smart phone and gave us a miniature slide show from his Blackberry (by the way, we have the old Nokia phones that are only as smart as we are and it is second in line to my most frustrating experience here; language being the first…and I’m NOT too smart!).  I will have a pretty fully furnished house with a bed, living room chairs, a bathroom with running water and a very lovely yard.  I’ll shoot pictures so you can see it but I’m so looking forward to getting there now more than ever.  I also learned that despite the fact that there is only a sink in the kitchen, I can purchase a small oven and propane tank with my “settling in” money which I can cook and bake with.  We also were told that we will have nearly 10 hours of electricity every day starting at 7:00 p.m. that is provided by generators on campus.  If only there were an internet connection…I’ll know more tomorrow.

“Tenki ya” for reading along…there is much more to come!

My First Days...

Here I am near the beginning of my journey.  I'm actually on my way back to Philadelphia after visiting Halley and Karim in Oakland, California with a great stay seeing my folks and sister in nearby Davis.  While in Oakland, Halley threw a wonderful picnic at the Merritt Lake Park near her house and invited a number of her old Peace Corps pals to join in.  We chatted, ate, and discussed experiences they had had while in Turkmenistan and I got a lot of advice on what I might expect when I ship out. 


In Davis, I was very pleasantly surprised when my brother, Kim, drove all the way up from L.A. to visit and make us a family of five (sorry Sheena, you got a bit cut off!) which we won't be occasioned to have happen again until I return in a year.  Yes, I really am going to go to Sierra Leone to join the Peace Corps.

Once there, I will be what is known as an English Lecturer at Njala University (pronounced in-ja'-la) and teaching teachers how to teach reading and writing much like I did at West Chester University.  I suspect, however, this is where all similarities will end.  We were told we will have no running water, no internet, and only a few hours of electricity a day powered by local generators.  It's going to be rugged but I welcome the change and can't wait to be on my way.

I've never done a blog before and quite honestly have only read a few examples of them before.  So this is going to be another steep learning curve for me.  I look forward to keeping you all abreast of what is happening in my life in West Africa and learning about what is going on state-side.  More soon...