Wednesday, February 13, 2013

Happy to be Back in Africa

I apologize for the long lapse in communicating with everyone.  We have had, to say the least, extremely limited internet connection here at Njala University...but that is the good news!  So, that said, you won't see any pictures in this entry.  Oh, I had some great ones, but the server here is so slow that I can't even upload one not to mention the six I had planned for this.

But back at the library, our head computer wizard, Thomas, returned from London shortly before I left in December with what was promised as a complete fiber-optic system in transit.  I figured its arrival would appear in "African Time" and I'd never see a single megabyte of it but in mid-January when I entered the library for the first time in 2013, the floor was covered with wiring that looked every bit like Strega Nona's pot again gone awry.  You literally couldn't cross the room for tripping on the pasta-like strands being gathered and lifted and stuffed into the ceiling, wedged behind walls, and laced through new opening made in the backs of computer stations giving new life to the half-dozen old computer towers we've used since I arrived and sparking life into another six new arrivals.  My friend, Patrick, the assistant wizard, approached apologetically saying we'd be without internet connection for at least a week.  Well, that indeed did turn into "African Time" but these past few days I've been able to at least get my students in at night for our Computer Club.  Here (would have been) Theresa and Reggie digging for the last of their materials for our Cross-Cultural Literature class and their subsequent presentation on Russian literature.

But I'm getting ahead of myself.  I arrived back in-country on Friday, January 18th after a rather uneventful flight from JFK through Brussels and on to Freetown.  A friendly (and very expensive) taxi driver, Mr. Bah, whisked me right to the Peace Corps Headquarters on Signal Hill and I was asleep by midnight.  The next morning I awoke and, though considerably jet-lagged, hied off to the Freetown branch of Njala University where I caught the early afternoon shuttle bus back to Mokonde arriving just as the sun was setting.  Alas, not a half hour after walking in the door, the power and lights went out.  

Undaunted and realizing I hadn't taken a shower since the previous Thursday morning, I turned on the spigot which issued only a few pathetic droplets.  I thought, what a lousy joke this is!  But within fifteen minutes, the electricity was restored and the lights were burning.  When I checked my water tank outside, I realized it was full and on further inspection found that someone had turned off the outside feed valve so with a quick twist of the wrist I was back inside taking a shower with the lights on...and the afternoon sun had warmed the water so it was quite enjoyable.

The following day was like an old reunion.  When I went to fetch water, I was welcomed by one and all with handshakes, hugs, and gleeful greetings.  On the way back from the market, I met Philip's wife, Magdalene.  Here (would have been) the two of them at one of our "watering holes" called the Common Room.  As we neared our path that leads off the dirt road I noticed a young girl carrying a bucket of plantain on her head (picture would have been here).  Asking what she wanted for them (and willing to  pay almost anything within reason) she quoted an exorbitant Le 10,000.  

That's when Magdalene stepped in and not only hand-picked the best of the bunches but got the girl down to 5,000 Leones for five perfect plantains; a far more reasonable price.  I laughed at her haggling prowess and quipped, "Has Philip ever won an argument with you?"

She giggled, "Of course not!"

Of course not.  The next day when I told Philip of our venture, he smiled weakly and agreed, too.

Earlier, I admitted to Magdalene that I wouldn't be cooking them that night for lack of oil but not five minutes later she appeared at my door with a half bottle of oil in one hand and a ripe papaya for dessert in the other.  The plantains were delicious, the papaya divine!

There is no doubt we are making progress on a great many fronts here in Sierra Leone.  Beyond the internet news, power is now on for 15 hours a day (mostly), I'm keeping the bugs down to a minimum (barely), and my class are attending with greater frequency every single day.  We celebrated a Muslim holiday last Thursday with the day off at the university, and I got a call from one of my English 101 students who said a contingent of eager learners wanted class despite the official day off.  Thirty-five showed up for a two-hour lecture and every one left with a smile on their face.

The only other immediate conundrum is (and clearly always will be since the price here is prohibitive) that I'm still working diligently on is a reasonable source for Jack Daniels here in Salone which is high on my Peace Corps Secondary Projects list!  Just so you know, in the interim, I scored a gallon jug of Punjabi gin from a Bo merchant last week for just under $5.00 American (a lifetime supply?).  Since I've not gone blind, I think it will be a great alternative until I return!

So, I'm teaching, helping students in any way I can, eating my rice and drinking a tizzle, and keeping a merry perspective here in Sierra Leone.

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